时间滴酒 从Mojito到Mjöd — 瑞典特色饮品大盘点 | Typical Swedish Beverages

北欧绿色邮报网报道(记者陈雪霏)据斯德哥尔摩中国文化中心网站,周杰伦,华语流行乐坛的“周天王”,一个代表着80、90后青春年华的名字。听着他的歌,从青涩少年慢慢长大,他总是能精准看透你的心情,唱出你的心事。在距离第一张专辑20周年的时候,一首《Mojito》横空出世,再次以其中西融合的多元音乐风格火遍全网。轻快、动感、热情的旋律,洋溢着拉美浓郁的异域风情,唱着“甜得过头”的小心思,让人不自觉弯起嘴角,勾起美好的年少回忆。

Jay Chou, one of the most iconic Chinese pop music artists for the post-80s and 90s generations. His music can always pinpoint and reflect your emotions and thoughts. On the 20th anniversary of his first album, he released a single Mojito that went viral on the internet with his typical music style featuring an integration of Chinese and Western elements. The relaxed and dynamic melodies showing rich Latin American characteristics and the sweet lyrics expressing love remind you of the beautiful memories in the youth.

《Mojito》上线后迅速掀起一股“Mojito热”,大家纷纷在社交平台上晒出酒吧、咖啡厅的浅酌照,或是精致不输专业调酒师的自制鸡尾酒,让Mojito发源地古巴哈瓦也登上更多人的旅行清单。感受过激情热烈的拉美风情,那在地球的另一端,凛冽的北欧大陆,又能酿出一杯怎样的酒呢?

After the single was released on June 12, a wave of “Mojito fever” started spreading online as people were sharing photos of sipping mojito in the bars, cafes or equally exquisite homemade cocktails on social media. Havana, Cuba, home of mojito, made the travel lists of more people. While on the other side of the planet, on the vast land of Northern Europe, what drinks are brewed here?

 Tina Stafrén/imagebank.sweden.se
自史前时代以来,谷物就是斯堪的纳维亚最重要的食物来源,烹饪方式也多种多样:煮粥、烤面包、作为配料制成其他食物,或是发酵酿成啤酒。经过漫长的发展,许多饮品的传统却几乎未曾改变:mjöd蜂蜜酒、麦芽啤酒、圣诞葡萄汁julmust以及谷物或马铃薯酿成的烈酒schnapps等等。
Since prehistoric time, cereals have been the most important source of food in Scandinavia and there were many ways of using it – boil to porridge, bake bread, as ingredients in other foods and of course, ferment it to make beer. The beverages have been developing for a long time, though many have remained almost the same; mjöd made of honey, beer and julmust from malt, schnapps from grain or potatoes, etc. 

  Mjöd 蜂蜜酒  

电影《贝奥武夫》(2007)剧照 From Movie Beowulf (2007)

蜂蜜酒是由蜂蜜加水稀释后发酵而成,可加入草药、水果、谷物或香料调出不同口味,也是维京人的最爱。长篇史诗《贝奥武夫》中,瑞典南部耶阿特部族英雄贝奥武夫协助古丹麦人打败了怪兽格伦戴尔,而古丹麦国王举行宴会畅饮蜂蜜酒的大厅即名为“蜜酒厅”(mead hall)。蜂蜜酒在中国也有悠久的历史,始见于西周公元前780年周幽王宫宴中,盛行于唐宋,《本草纲目》中引证药王孙思邈曾用蜂蜜酒治疗风疹等疾病。

Image by Meritt Thomas
Mjöd, or mead in English, is an alcoholic beverage made by fermenting honey, water and yeast, the Vikings’ favorite. Different herbs, fruits, grains or spices can be added to create various flavors. In the epic poem Beowulf, the hero of Geats, a tribe in modern southern Sweden, aided the king of the Danes to defeat monster Grendel. The place where they held feasts and drank mjöd were called “mead hall”. In China, records of mead can date back to BC 780 during the Western Zhou dynasty in the emperor’s banquets. It was popular during the Tang and Song dynasties – as recorded in Compendium of Materia Medica by Li Shizhen in the Ming dynasty, Sun Simiao, the King of Medicine in China, used mead to treat diseases such as rubella.

  Punsch 潘趣酒  

Diki-Diki – www.kronanpunsch.com
1733年1月,瑞典东印度公司在印尼爪哇岛上的巴达维亚(今雅加达)偶然发现了巴达维亚亚力酒,一种甘蔗汁液酿成的朗姆酒。为了度过返回哥德堡的漫漫旅途,调制出了瑞典潘趣酒,并成为传承至今的传统饮品。瑞典潘趣酒由烈酒(巴达维亚亚力酒)、糖、柑橘类/酸性葡萄酒、香料/茶和水制成。一杯温热的潘趣酒,配上碗豆汤,是周四晚餐的传统搭配。今天,人们也经常以瑞典潘趣酒庆祝许多特殊场合。

 Doctor’s Cocktail –  www.kronanpunsch.com

In January 1733, sailors of the Swedish East India Company found Batavia Arrack, a double pot-stilled “rum” based on sugarcane molasses on an unplanned stop in Batavia (now Jakarta) on the Island of Java, Indonesia. For the long sail back to Gothenburg, “punch” was created, and so was the tradition of Swedish Punsch. Punsch consists of spirit (Batavia Arrack), sugar, citrus/acidic wine, spice/tea and water. A glass of warm punsch with ärtsoppa—pea and ham soup—was a common Thursday-night tradition;even today, special occasions are frequently toasted with punsch.

  Glögg 热葡萄酒  

Emelie Asplund/imagebank.sweden.se
Glögg,一种调有香料的热葡萄酒,搭配姜饼,为寒冷冬日增添一缕温暖。作为瑞典圣诞期间的热门饮品,glögg一般由红酒、糖、肉桂、小豆蔻、姜、丁香等香料制成,有时还会加入伏特加或白兰地等烈酒,也可制成无酒精的饮料。人们可以购买杯装或瓶装的成品,也可用配好的香料包自制,或者完全自行制作。在瑞典,人们基本只在圣诞期间享用glögg,别忘了加入葡萄干和脱皮杏仁哦~

Helena Wahlman/imagebank.sweden.se
Glögg, or mulled wine, is a warm beverage best enjoyed during the cold weeks leading up to Christmas. It tastes even better if you drink it with gingerbread snaps. As a popular feature at Swedish outdoors Christmas fairs, glögg is usually made of red wine, sugar, spices such as cinnamon, cardamom, ginger, cloves, and optionally also stronger spirits such as vodka or brandy. There are non-alcoholic versions as well. Glögg can be bought ready-made in cups or bottles, or made from prepared spice packages, or from scratch. In Sweden, this is a beverage consumed almost exclusively during the Christmas season, usually with raisins and blanched almonds added.

  Schnapps烈酒  

Tina Stafrén/imagebank.sweden.se瑞典蒸馏制作schnapps烈酒的历史可以追溯到15世纪晚期。最初用于药物治疗,之后,会在酒中加入草药和香料,更加有益于健康。到了17世纪,schnapps日益大众化,并成为瑞典人的传统饮品。至今,在瑞典人的圣诞和仲夏节餐桌上,仍然会提供鲱鱼、面包、奶酪和调入茴芹、茴香或枯茗等香料的schnapps烈酒,更不能少了传统的祝酒歌。

小龙虾派对 Crayfish Party – Tina Stafrén/imagebank.sweden.se
Schnapps has been distilled in Sweden since the late 1400s. It was first used as a medication and herbs and spices were added to increase the salutary effects. Schnapps became more commonplace in the 1600s and has been a part of Swedish culinary traditions. Still the Swedish people commence both Christmas and Midsummer feast with herring, bread, cheese and schnapps spiced mostly with anise, fennel or cumin, followed by traditional drinking songs. 

  Malt Beer 麦芽啤酒  

Janus Langhorn/imagebank.sweden.se

瑞典著名食品专家理查德·泰尔斯特罗姆说,制作烈性啤酒需要六倍多的麦芽和谷物,因此,只有在宴会场合才会饮用:丰收啤酒slåtteröl、葬礼啤酒gravöl、受洗啤酒barnsöl,以及最重要的圣诞啤酒julöl。人们日常饮用低度啤酒svagdricka,当然也是庆祝圣诞的好选择。

Image by Pasi Mämmelä
According to the famous Swedish food researcher Richard Tellström, it requires six times more malt and therefore cereals to make strong beer, so it is only used at feasts; slåtteröl (harvest beer), gravöl (funeral beer), barnsöl (baptizing beer) and most importantly, julöl (Christmas beer). Svagdricka (weak beer) is served for daily use and is still common at Christmas. 
  Julmust 圣诞葡萄汁  

Image by Aurelie Luylier
Must葡萄汁是瑞典节庆宴会中最常出现的非酒精饮料,由麦芽、啤酒花及多种香料酿制而成。上世纪初,瑞典圣诞特饮julmust面世,成为啤酒和schnapps烈酒的替代品。在其他节日期间,也会看到must的身影,比如复活节时的påskmust和仲夏节前后的sommarmust。
Must is still one of the most popular non alcoholic malt beverages for feasts in Sweden, made of malt, hop and a variety of spices. And julmust (Christmas must) was launched in the beginning of last century as an alternative to beer and schnapps. It is called påskmust during Easter and sommarmust around Midsummer.

Tina Stafrén/imagebank.sweden.se
在这片寒冷的土地,饮酒是再正常不过的事。大量本可制成食物的土豆和谷物被酿成了酒类。19世纪初,瑞典建立了首个规范适量饮酒的组织。1914年,酒类实行定量配给制,直至1955年被废除,并成立了国营酒类商店Systembolaget。尽管瑞典法定饮酒年龄为18岁,但是必须年满21岁才可以在Systembolaget消费。
Drinking is wide spread in these cold latitudes and large quantities of potatoes and cereals that could have been used as food are distilled in almost every household. In the beginning of the 19th century, the first organization for moderate drinking was created. A little later, in 1914, rationing was imposed which lasted until 1955, when Systembolaget was founded as a part of the sobriety movement, a special shop only for alcoholic beverages which had limited opening hours and only sold to people over 21 years old. 

烈酒博物馆 Museum of Spirits – Tina Stafrén/imagebank.sweden.se
即使在地中海葡萄酒文化的强烈影响下,瑞典的酒文化依然有其独树一帜的魅力。从产于瑞典南部并风靡全球的绝对伏特加(Absolut Vodka),到继承与创新并存的本土酿酒厂,将古老的传统不断传承发展。
Even with strong influences from the Mediterranean wine culture, many smaller local breweries are arising with both traditional old recipes and newer creations besides the world famous Absolut Vodka manufactured in southern Sweden. So the deep rooted traditions continue to develop.

Skål / Cheers / 干杯!- Janus Langhorn/imagebank.sweden.se

参考资料/Sources:

https://www.livetsgoda.se

https://folkofolk.se/

http://www.systembolagethistoria.se/

Hem
https://norse-mythology.net/
https://imagebank.sweden.se/

Richard Tellström (food researcher)


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